༺ Stitching Stories: Loop the Loop ༻

Oh my goodness ~ I knew it has been a long time since I last did a Stitching Stories, but over a year and a half? Wow…

I guess it does make sense, we were so busy packing at the beginning of 2017 that I didn’t have a lick of time spare for any hobbies at all. When we got back for Christmas at the end of November, it wasn’t long until I was sitting down and doing some sewing at my Mom’s machine. I finished two dresses over Christmas ~ this one, and another. But I haven’t had a chance to post about until now.

The dress I’m wearing in this post was supposed to be my Christmas dress {didn’t finish it in time} and a wearable toile test for Butterick Retro Pattern B5748. I’ve had trouble with Butterick patterns fitting me properly before, so even though this was a simple pattern, I was determined to try and make sure it fitted perfectly beforehand.

I added a FBA, added extra seam allowance as the finished measurements of the size 14 I cut were 36B and 28W. Now, I hadn’t measured myself recently {and this is actually a good thing..!} but I knew for certain I was NOT a 28W!

I did the math and added the extra inches I thought I’d need and sewed up the bodice. It seemed to fit okay, but the skirt wasn’t on yet, so I couldn’t really tell. Once I put the skirt on it was clear to me that the bodice was wayyyyy too big! So glad I didn’t try to add even extra for my new measurements!

To make it wearable, I ended up making a series of darts and inside tucks to pinch out ALL the excess fabric I’d put in. Unfortunately, I’d already hand sewn my bias binding trim on around the neckline and armscyes. This meant that they all ended up with visible seams in the binding. Poo.

I had to take a big chunk out of the middle of the bodice, the back and the shoulders. And in the end, I also took more in at the waist seam to get the waist seam up a little higher! This was tricky as I did it after inserting my zipper.

Overall, the dress doesn’t fit as well as I’d like, it has some bunching issues under the arms, and it also likes to drop down at the front, which pushes the shoulder seams forward and the extra fabric bunches under my bust. I think this is actually the fault of too much fabric at the back. I have a slight sway back, and if there was any adjustment that I really needed it was a SBA.

Still, the dress is super lightweight and comfortable. The length and the simplicity of the cut and fabric make it really easy to wear so I was actually wearing it a TON over the summer.

But one thing was still bothering me… I’d added the bow at the neckline when making the dress ~ mostly because I’d had to do that interior tuck right up the middle of the bodice and I needed to camouflage the subsequent seam in the bias binding ~ but it wasn’t enough.

The rest of the dress looked so bare, I knew I had to do something about it. So just a week or so ago, I decided to add decorations to the pockets! I ended up with a loop-the-loop design with a bow at each end, and I really love, love, love it!

It doesn’t make the dress too fussy, but just adds that touch of something special. I was so pleased when I finally figured out what I needed to finish it off.   

I have discovered I really do need to sew more basic clothing. I’m always drawn to all the fiddly patterns and all the fussy prints ~ and while I adore the intricacy of creating a detailed dress, I tend up “saving” those ones for special outings. I kept on pulling this one out over and over and over again because I loved how easy it was to wear! Whereas the second dress {which this one was the toile for…} yes, it has been sitting in the cupboard waiting for a special occasion to wear it! D’oh…

That one might not come out until much later on… Hehe…

~ Project Details ~

• Year: Retro re-print from the 60s
• Pattern: Butterick Retro B5748
• Fabric: From my mother’s stash – a super sheer lightweight poly-cotton, red and white striped.
• Notions: Red bias binding, red satin tubing, and a zip.
• Time to complete: I can’t remember. The sewing on the machine didn’t take long at all, it was the hand sewing that really added the time. I hand sewed the bias trim, the hem, and the pocket detail.
• Make again? Yes! I already have! And I want to make some other versions playing with the bodice style. I really enjoy how easy this one is to sew, and once I figured out the fit issues, I loved the fit.
• Wear again? Absolutely. This one is coming with me to Thailand. I love it.
• Total Cost:  Not sure. Maybe $15.00? Thanks Mummy for the fabric!

xox,

bonita

༺ ♡ ༻

Retrimmed Straw Boater Hat | Old
Red & White Ranunculus Hair Flowers | Daisy Jean Floral Designs
Loop The Loop Dress | Me Made, 2018
Red Bow Spectator Court Pumps | Dolce Nome

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༺ Stitching Stories: Looking for Land Girls ༻

Yay!! I made pants! I actually did it!! 

Last year I participated in the Vintage Pattern Pledge and managed to get all my makes completed by the skin of my teeth. And while I’ve been super slow starting with my sewing this year, I did sign up to do it all again.

I, Bonita Vear of Lavender & Twill, pledge to sew at least five vintage or vintage reproduction patterns in 2016 ~ these must include one pair of pants! I also pledge to finish one knitted garment from a vintage or vintage reproduction pattern.

This time, I was also invited to share my make as part of the Vintage Pattern Pledge roundup on Kestrel Makes {and you can check out my guest post interview over here}. It’s taken me a whole six months to get cracking, I think I’ve been dragging my heels after all the sewing disasters I had faced last year. But I finally sat down at my machine and I’m really happy that the first pattern I sewed up this year was my first pair of long anticipated trousers!

I’ve seen Simplicity’s Retro re-release of a 1940’s four-piece suit pattern floating around on sewing blogs/vintage blogs for a good several years now. It’s a great pattern, everyone seems to like sewing it up. Every time I saw the pants I was like: “They look great! I should make those!…But pants are so hard… Eh, I’ll just sew a dress instead.”. This year, however, I put on my brave face, made my pledge to actually give it a go, and whadda you know… It wasn’t that scary at all! (•̀o•́)ง✧

Okay, so they are not exactly the most challenging kind of pants to sew {I’m looking at you jeans…} but any kind of pants have been on my “OhboyIcan’tsewthattooscary” list ever since I started sewing. So I didn’t have to face a fly, any sort of thigh/hip/butt/crotch adjustments ~ thank goodness! ~ or twin top stitching, but I’m taking baby steps towards it, and that’s enough for me at the moment.

The ease of construction and the loose, vintage style of these pants means that this pattern is a fantastic beginner’s introduction to sewing trousers. It went together really smoothly {I only had to unpick a couple of seams when I got the front and back pieces confused, but when I figured out that I’d sewn it front-front and back-back instead of front-back, front-back it was a very easy fix}, and there aren’t any difficult techniques you need to know to make them up.

I did switch out the standard waistband interfacing for Grosgrain ribbon to create the waistband. I like using this couture technique for building the waistband because I feel like the finished result is far more sturdier, actually stands up better instead of folding over or creasing down {like a lot of my skirt waistbands used to do before I started doing this}, and doesn’t stretch out of shape. Plus, I think it makes button holes easier as well! But on that note, yes, my button tab is too long… Whoops!

I also added a pocket into the side seam opposite the zipper, because who likes pants without pockets?? I mean, really…. But I do that with all my skirts and dresses too. I find if it doesn’t have pockets, I’m much less likely to wear it!

I handpicked the zipper and the hem for the pants ~ and while I adore hemming by hand, zippers still elude me when it comes to a perfectly neat finish, so I think I need to keep practising my zipper insertion for sure.

I am so happy with the finished trousers though; I can’t even say. This winter I’ve really been into swing pants ~ I kind of feel like they are the vintage girl’s version of trakkie-daks…. Or pyjamas… Have I mentioned that these things are darn comfortable? (~￣▽￣)~

I’m definitely leaning towards 1940’s land girl inspiration for styling options rather than glamourous Hollywood slacks ~ those ladies had to work hard, and had to have outfits that were not only durable, but also easy to move in. These pants definitely fit that bill, and are a wardrobe staple for me right now. I’m just wondering how many more pairs I should make! I definitely need a navy pair in twill or gabardine, and possibly a pair in chocolate Ponte knit??!

Or maybe I should try my hand at a pair of jeans? If anyone has any recommendations for an easy 1940’s -1950’s vintage or vintage reproduction pattern for jeans; I’m all ears! ( ^ _ ^)∠☆

~ Project Details ~

• Year: Retro re-release of a Simplicity 1940’s suit pattern  
• Pattern: Simplicity 3688
• Fabric: Unknown length of undetermined stretch hounds tooth knit fabric. This fabric came from my Grandmother’s stash. It was passed on from her to my Mom, and then to me before it was finally made up!  
• Notions: Two buttons, Grosgrain ribbon for the waistband, and one metal zipper 
• Time to complete: Two weeks
• Make again? Yes. No doubt. I’m already trying to figure out which fabric I should use next…
• Wear again? Considering that I’ve worn them every day since I finished them up, and I’m wearing them right now as I write this post ~ I’d say so! Haha!!
• Total Cost:  $2.60 for the zipper, the fabric was from the stash, as were the buttons. Not bad, but then I have to count $16.50 for repurchasing the pattern after Miss Three decided to jump on the lounge chair where I had put the pattern tissue and tore it to shreds... So, $19.10 in total.

xox,

bonita

༺ ♡ ༻

DIY Vintage Hair Tie | Me Made, 2015
Cherry Pointe Knit Top {old} | Collectif
Land Girl Slacks | Me Made, 2016
Tan Prairie Style Boots {old} | Cotton On

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༺ How to DIY a 1940’s Crochet Snood ༻

For some time now I’ve been eyeing off various gorgeous hairstyles around the place that have involved lovely snoods, like this one, or this one, but I have hemed and hawed about purchasing one for myself.  The ease of popping one on and waltzing out the door for the day is very tempting for a busy vintage mother, the only problem ~ $16.00 or more seemed like a lot to spend on one snood.

I decided to whip out my Google fingers and see what I could turn up, and et voilà!  I present to you the “Perky Snood” pattern.   A vintage 1940’s crochet snood pattern for a medium sized snood. 

~ Download free snood pattern here ~

The pattern is very simple, but calls for a long treble crochet stitch which is rather old fashioned, and not used all that frequently these days.  Here are the instructions on how to do the stitch:

Long Treble Crochet (long tr.) -  YO 3 times before inserting the hook into the work, YO and draw through 2 loops on the hook 4 times.

Decreasing Long Treble Crochet (dec. long tr.) - YO 3 times, insert hook in next long tr. and YO. Take off  2 loops 3 times in succession, leaving 2 loops on the hook. YO 3 times, insert hook in work (6 loops on hook), YO, take off 2 loops, 3 times in succession, YO and take off 3 loops at once.

Yarn Over -  YO

Now, I have to warn you that although I found this pattern easy to get the hang of in terms of stitches, it doesn’t seem to be easy to put together the right sized hook and yarn ply to create a large enough snood.  I actually repeated this pattern three times before I finally turned out a snood that was large enough to wear!

Here are my notes so that you don’t make the same mistakes that I did.

~  Second snood on the left compared with the third snood on the right.  The first one was even smaller, can you believe!  More like a bun net than anything else…  ~

First I tried using a small 1.50mm hook that I thought the pattern called for, and the yarn to match.  That turned out all wrong ~ it was far too small.  So was the next one, with a larger 4.00mm hook and the yarn to match.  I looked like I was wearing a lunch lady’s hair net rather than a snood!  So then I went back to my original yarn, which was actually 2 ply cotton, with the 4.00mm hook, and somehow that worked.

I still think that the pattern ended up a little shorter than what I would have preferred, but in this case it is ok, because my hair is quite short at the moment and won’t really suit anything longer.  If you want a longer snood, simply add more rows in the middle before you start your decreases and you will be all set!

Last, but not least ~ here’s the finished results in action:

 

Remember to swatch your work, as the gauge is crucial to sizing, and enjoy your snood making!   ヾ(＾∇＾)

xox,

bonita

༺ ♡ ༻

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~ 1940s style knitting patterns ~ free downloads

I found these lovely patterns popping up in my Feedly {my blog reader for those of you that don’t know it} and I thought would share for those that may be interested in some wonderful knitting resources.

This sweet button-down cardigan is available from Bex of Subversive Femme ~ download it here.

This lovely split-necked knit top is also available from Bex of Subversive Femme ~ download it here.

If you are looking for more patterns, Bex has a library of free downloads here. There are men’s patterns, as well as plus-size knitting patterns, so her blog is a must see!

Liz from Zilredloh also shares a lot of free knitting patterns, and she not only knits up the beauties she shares, she also is an accomplished seamstress with loads of cute self-made garments.

 

Isn’t this pattern simply stunning? Download it here.

If you are after something cute, but not so complicated, this lovely rib has an interesting pattern.

Available for download here.

Of course we mustn’t forget The Vintage Pattern Files blog, a wonderful source that rounds up a lot of the freebies hiding out there in internet land. You can pick and choose, just by searching ~ there are sewing tutorials, guides and patterns, crochet patterns and of course; knits!

 

This style is available in a full pattern booklet here.

And though we are almost at the end of the Knit for Victory KAL being hosted by the lovely Tasha of By Gum, By Golly, you might still have time to join in with a quick project ~ like this darling mid-forties knitted snood.

Available here.

Or you could whip up this knitted turban ~

 
Download here.

Or if you are super-speedy knitter maybe this 1940’s Quick Knit from Flossy & Dossy will answer.

This is how far I’ve gotten ~

 

Yup, that’s the back.  Yup, I still have the front and the sleeves to go. I had better get cracking! Are you participating in the Knit For Victory KAL?

xox,

bonita